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Suzuki Fork Oil LO1

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57K views 69 replies 28 participants last post by  tzk321  
F
#1 ·
Anybody know what Suzuki Fork Oil LO1 is in real world viscosity ratings ?
Curiously
Flange
 
Z
#34 ·
I can't believe how BAD my fork oil was!!! And with only 5500 miles on the bike.
Fork oil level was 127 in one and 146 in the other. The book says 162 is what it should be. Way over in both in my case. The oil was also very different consistancy. One was thick...like 10W or thicker...the other was watery...like 2.5W.
The change is BIG! As Flange states, I was able to back off my settings to half what the were...1.5 out on rebound and 2 on compression. Mind you, I weigh about 170 with gear.
Thanks, Flange, for the great post!!!
I would STRONGLY recommend that you change your fork oil ASAP if you already haven't done so!!! Don't just go out and swap out for a GSXR front end until you put fresh oil in your forks. And use this as a setup reference.
http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index.cfm?fa=contentGeneric.peqehomhihbyduvj&pageId=97391
I'm AM however installing a new 07 GSXR rear shock next week. :)
I'll let y'all know how it works.
 
Z
#35 ·
zrider said:
I'm AM however installing a new 07 GSXR rear shock next week. :)
I'll let y'all know how it works.
Click to expand...
So, I got the rear shock installed. I'll say the 'bad first'.
#1 The 2007 rear shock is about 12mm shorter than the stock 05 SV shock. This raises the seat height about 12 to 20mm. Not so bad if you are 6ft or taller. I set the fork caps level with top tripple to compensate.
#2 The spring rate is 500! Conciderably stiffer than stock. Not good for skinny guys like me that only weigh in at 160 or so geared up. I had to back the preload all the way off!
#3 The resevour comes straight out from shock and sticks out about 10mm farther. Had to remove plastic piece on side of toolbox...not sure what the purpose of this was...Also heated up toolbox with heatgun and warped the side in a bit. Worked great...no cutting. Tooks still fit fine.

OK, the good!
#1 This shock is made MUCH better and has a 'quality' feel to it. Makes the bike less bouncy...squirmy.
#2 The rebound and compression damping settings are much more efective.
#3 The shock has High and Low speed compression damping settings.

Hows the ride: In initial testing, I found the ride to be firm and stable! serious understeer with stock settings though. I back the compression settings nearly all the way off and that fixed that issue. I tuned in the High Speed adjuster in a bit, (The Nut on upper part of shock) so fast sweepers are more stable, while lower speed (Screw inside the Nut) corners are still supple and compliant. So in the end, I have the Compression settings back way off to compensate for the stiffer spring. This seems to be working well.
I would surmize that if you are a heavy rider...200lbs or more, this shock would be a great way to improve over stock. i got it NEW off of eBay for $80 delivered. Time will tell if it works well for my skinny self.
 
#37 ·
suggestions please

:confused:I have a SV1000N
With gear I weigh about 160 pounds/73 kg.
I'm not a terribly agressive rider, but aspire to be - one day.

So, after reading all the posts in this thread I still can't decide if I should use 2.5 wt or 5 wt fork oil.

Should I keep the oil level at 147mm or bring it up to 135mm. Help please.
 
#56 ·
Who's good at algebra?

tzk321 said:
:confused:I have a SV1000N
With gear I weigh about 160 pounds/73 kg.
I'm not a terribly agressive rider, but aspire to be - one day.

So, after reading all the posts in this thread I still can't decide if I should use 2.5 wt or 5 wt fork oil.

Should I keep the oil level at 147mm or bring it up to 135mm. Help please.
Click to expand...
Who can figure this out:

What volume of fork oil should be removed to change the height by 12 mm?
:confused::HMM:
 
#39 ·
Thanks, longhair.

One last question before i get started. For those with the N version: It looks like the headlight bracket wraps around the fork tube. Does this bracket need to be removed or will the fork tube simply slide right through it? tia
 
#40 ·
tzk321 said:
One last question before i get started. For those with the N version: It looks like the headlight bracket wraps around the fork tube. Does this bracket need to be removed or will the fork tube simply slide right through it? tia
Click to expand...
The forks slide through/out of them (quite easily too).
 
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#42 ·
Info straight from the racetech site for an '03 SV1k.
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=1><TBODY><TR bgColor=#00ccff><TD vAlign=top width="60%">[SIZE=+1]Fork Valving / Damping Kits[/SIZE]</TD><TD vAlign=top width="27%" bgColor=#00ccff></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%" bgColor=#00ccff></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%" bgColor=#00ccff></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%" bgColor=#00ccff></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="60%">[SIZE=-1]Type 1 Gold Valve Kit – Standard Type 1 Compression Kit [/SIZE]</TD><TD vAlign=top width="27%"><CENTER>[SIZE=-1]FMGV S2040 [/SIZE]</CENTER></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%"><CENTER>[SIZE=-1]$169.99 [/SIZE]</CENTER></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">
<INPUT maxLength=2 size=2 value=1 name=quantity>​


</TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle width="13%"><!---BEGIN OF CHECK BOX--><INPUT type=checkbox value=1268 name=Processed0> <!---END OF CHECK BOX--></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="60%">[SIZE=-1]G2-R Gold Valve Kit - G2-R Next Generation Compression Kit[/SIZE]</TD><TD vAlign=top width="27%"><CENTER>[SIZE=-1]FMGV S2040G [/SIZE]</CENTER></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%"><CENTER>[SIZE=-1]$179.99 [/SIZE]</CENTER></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">
<INPUT maxLength=2 size=2 value=1 name=quantity>​


</TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle width="13%"><!---BEGIN OF CHECK BOX--><INPUT type=checkbox value=4265 name=Processed1> <!---END OF CHECK BOX--></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="60%">[SIZE=-1]Fork Rebound Gold Valve Kit [/SIZE]</TD><TD vAlign=top width="27%"><CENTER>[SIZE=-1]FRGV S02 [/SIZE]</CENTER></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%"><CENTER>[SIZE=-1]$169.99 [/SIZE]</CENTER></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">
<INPUT maxLength=2 size=2 value=1 name=quantity>​


</TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle width="13%"><!---BEGIN OF CHECK BOX--><INPUT type=checkbox value=1338 name=Processed2> <!---END OF CHECK BOX--></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="60%">[SIZE=-1]Fork Rebound HFR Gold Valve Kit-Racing (Hi-Frequency Response Race Rebound Gold Valve) [/SIZE]</TD><TD vAlign=top width="27%"><CENTER>[SIZE=-1]FRGV SR2001 [/SIZE]</CENTER></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%"><CENTER>[SIZE=-1]$169.99 [/SIZE]</CENTER></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">
<INPUT maxLength=2 size=2 value=1 name=quantity>​


</TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle width="13%"><!---BEGIN OF CHECK BOX--><INPUT type=checkbox value=4545 name=Processed3> <!---END OF CHECK BOX--></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="60%">[SIZE=-1]Fork 25mm G2-R Cartridge Kit [SIZE=-2](Complete Drop-In Cartridge Replacement)[/SIZE][/SIZE]</TD><TD vAlign=top width="27%"><CENTER>[SIZE=-1]call [/SIZE]</CENTER></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%"><CENTER>[SIZE=-1]Call [/SIZE]</CENTER></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">

</TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle width="13%"><!---BEGIN OF CHECK BOX--><!---END OF CHECK BOX--></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width="60%">[SIZE=-1]Fork 25mm G2-R Cartridge Adapter Only Kit [SIZE=-2](Included in Complete Kit - only used when switching models)[/SIZE][/SIZE]</TD><TD vAlign=top width="27%"><CENTER>[SIZE=-1]call [/SIZE]</CENTER></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%"><CENTER>[SIZE=-1]Call [/SIZE]</CENTER></TD><TD vAlign=top width="13%">

</TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle width="13%"><!---BEGIN OF CHECK BOX--><!---END OF CHECK BOX--></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Click to expand...
I have a set of S2040 and S02 valves, but they're going into a set of GSXR forks.
 
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T
#43 ·
Longhair said:
Info straight from the racetech site for an '03 SV1k.

I have a set of S2040 and S02 valves, but they're going into a set of GSXR forks.
Click to expand...
Oh, you got to that by selecting Suzuki SV1000 which, when you get to years, only lets you select '03. I selected Suzuki SV1000S, which gives an option to select any year from '03 to '07. Your way gets me to the rebuildable cartridge fork parts, where as selecting any SV1000S from '03-'07 results in the page which shows that they are not rebuildable.

The aggravating thing is that the Racetech rep I emailed apparently didn't know their own products and insisted to me that all SV1000S forks are non-rebuildable.
 
#46 ·
Have a look at this - there's a chart half way down which compares fork oil for viscosity
Suzuki L01 is on there as well - its somewhere between 2.5 & 5 wt


linky
 
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#47 ·
DO NOT GO BY LABLED OIL WEIGHT! Not only is this a poor way to decide which oil to use, but each manufacturer seems to be on a different scale. For example Maxima RSF 7wt is actually lighter than Spectro 5wt and Silkolene Pro RSF 7.5wt is actually heavier than Showa SS-8 10wt. This is not a judgment about the quality of these oils, just that the 'weight' label leads to a lot of trouble when trying to tune with suspension oils.
Click to expand...
:wacko:

Wayyy too complicated for me, but thanks anyway.

I went into a local Zuki dealer today and found out they gave up Zuki for good. Twice in the last year a local dealer has quit selling/supporting Suzuki. Hmmm. Anyway, they had some OEM stuff left and I bought 2 pints of the 10wt Suzuki Fork & Suspension oil (SP-1B) and will change out my stock fluid after 3 years...
 
#62 ·
Oil? More like green slime!

I have an 03 S, silver, if that matters. Was time to change fork oil as I am second owner and have no info on whether it was done before or not. It was a low millage bike so I'm assuming not. So, I do the necessary research, gather the proper tools (I laid out $120 for a low capacity torque wrench) hoist up the front of the bike from the rafters with some of my arborist supplies and remove the forks. I didn't do my research very well because I did not loosen the caps on the bike. With the help of some latex gloves I was able to unscrew the caps. I turned over the fork and this weird mix of watery, globby greenish ooze poured out. It had blackish sediment in it and seemed to have separated into its individual components. I then used the brake cleaner and really pumped the crap out of the cartridge. Satisfied, I then used a hair dryer to speed the evaporation of the brake cleaner. Now this next part took entirely too much time. I measure out 494 mL of 5w Honda fluid and dump it in the tube. Just like the manual says it fills to the bottom of the nut on the inner rod. I pump both inner tube and inner rod many times to bleed air. Then I measure the air gap. 120 mm. Why? I dumped out the oil, 500 mL. Checked everything twice. I deliberated for quite some time on what to do and decided that measured air gap was more important than added volume and went with 150 mL gap. It's been too shitty out to reinstall and test, but the both hands on top of the fork leg and push test shows smooth movement and effective adjustment on damping controls.
The question is this. Why state exactly to fill with 494 mL? Then have to pull 30mL or so out to get the right measurement. Why overfill by 50 mm? Why not fill with 500mL? Is this similar to other's experience? I also did the steering damper. The same green gloppy shit came out of that. I also picked up an 05 GSXR 1K shock, but haven't installed yet.
 
#64 ·
Thanks for the help and I'm still trying to find the OEM oil. There's just too many people on too many lists saying too many different things. Some say it's 2.5, some 5.0 and I've even read claims on other lists that its 10.0. I just want to use the same stuff that was in there originally. I had the suspension set up perfectly before and it'll be a lot easier to do again if everything is kept the same.
 
#65 ·
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#69 ·
Setting up any suspension these days you cannot do by "weight." Everybody's oils are different and in some cases some manufactures 5 wt is anothers 10wt. You need to decide on a cSt value and a hi VI fluid. What does this mean? It means a real engineering value for flow rates at 40C and 100C and a high VI value means it will changes flow characteristics much less when hot and cold than a low VI fluid. Modern forks really need hi VI fluids so they work the same on a cold day, and in race conditions on a hot day too. L01 is listed in my info as 15.5 cSt @40C. this oil might work well for some in stock forks but if you have stiffer fork spings you will not have a enough rebound adjustment to get them in the range they should be. Two ways to deal with this are a heavier oil or a revalve. Revalving is the best though. Heavier oil can helps but can also have adverse effects. Ultimately you want to use a light oil, as this will help the fork use the valving to control oil flow and not the oil it self. But this does take new valving and often new needle valves to control the suspension correctly.

Tuning can be accomplished by mixing oils as someone has mentioned and posted a link to it. This is great for the Motul oils but can not be carried over to other brands. Mixing of fluids is more complicated than what most people think. 50% 5wt and 50% 10wt by volume does not make 7.5wt. Resulting viscosity are dependant on the VBN (Viscosity blend Numbers) and then the mass fraction numbers need to be used to get the resulting viscosity. I just graphed up a blend chart for some redline 5wt and redline 10wt to show resulting viscosities are not the average of the two. The red line in the graph shows the result that most people would think you get by using a weighted average and the blue line is the actual resulting viscosity of the blend. They vary quite a bit.

For those that want to know

VBN = 14.534[ln(ln(v+0.8))] + 10.975 where v is viscosity in cSt
VBN blend = [Xa(VBNa)] + [Xb(VBNb)] + ... + [Xn(VBNn)] Where Xa and so on are mass fractions of the fluid in the blend
Now the resulting viscosity can be calculated by
Vr = exp{exp[(VBNblend - 10.975)/14.534]} - 0.8

I have also included a quick write up on the topic.

-MS
 

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