2: Undo the side panels under the seat

And remove the seat…

3: Undo the tank retaining bolts…

Lift the tank & prop up with the tank prop (surprisingly!!)

4: Run the engine until at it’s normal operating temperature (most are around 85-90 deg)

5: Check & adjust your idle speed… It should be about 1200rpm.

6: If (as above) the idle is too low, locate the idle adjust screw – on the left hand side of the bike in one of the triangle shapes in the chassis and adjust. Turn clockwise to raise the idle speed and anti-clockwise to lower it… Go in small movements and ‘blip’ the throttle after each adjustment and allow it to settle before trusting what the rev counter says!

 

7: Undo & remove the pillion seat.

8: Locate the Dealer Mode Activation Connector
If you look into the tail unit from behind, on the left hand side you should see a bunch of a few wires & connectors behind a bit of plastic protruding from the undertray.
Follow this bit of plastic down towards the rider’s saddle and you should find another connector. It’s rectangular, white plastic with 6 holes for connectors in and only 4 of them used. It also has a black rubberised cover on it.

9: Turn off your ignition and put your ‘dealer mode tool’ in the two terminals that are next to each other.

**WARNING**
Do NOT short out the wire onto the chassis or any other part of the bike. Do NOT connect either of the other two terminals to anything.

10: With the ‘tool’ still in the connector turn on your ignition. The temperature display should have disappeared and now you will see a little line (like a minus sign), the letter c followed by two zeros. If you have any other numbers shown in this display, to diagnose your bike’s fault (it’s the dealer diagnostic display!)

11: SLOWLY turn your throttle while looking at the little line on the dash… It should move from the middle of the zeros to the top at about 1450rpm. I will bet money on the fact that it won’t!! It will probably move at about 1800 even 3000rpm.
This is where the fuel injection starts injecting more fuel into the engine so when it’s set too high the bike will be jerky at low speeds! (The line takes a second or two to move, hence turning the throttle slowly!)

12: Turn off the engine and locate the Throttle Position Sensor… It’s under the tank on the left hand side of the bike, just behind the air box.

 

13: Using your size 25 Security Torx bit…
CAREFULLY undo the two torx bolts on the sensor (the ones at the top & bottom, not either side!).

**WARNING**
The bolts are very hard to get to (especially the lower one) and are made of a very fine, soft French cheese!!!!

I found it easiest to adjust if you don’t undo the top bolt very much as this way you can pivot it a bit better!

14: Start the engine and turn the sensor anti-clockwise (I think) to decrease the sensor’s activation point. You will need to make very tiny movements of the sensor!
You may find that the engine cuts out (or nearly cuts out). If it does stop, try moving the sensor back in the opposite direction & thumbing the starter button again. If this doesn’t help, try increasing your idle speed a little at a time until the engine starts & runs properly again!

15: Keep making small adjustments, turning the throttle slowly while looking at the display to see when the line moves to the top of the display. It should stay in the middle of the display whilst idle and move to the top at around 1450rpm.
Keep fiddling – it does happen although it can be bloody fiddly & infuriating!

16: Once you’ve got the line to move at about 1450rpm, very slowly tighten up the bolts on the sensor again – it’s easiest to do the top one first. It’s not a bad idea to hold the sensor steady as you tighten it, as if it moves, the sensor will activate at a different rpm! Check that the line moves at the same revs after you tighten each bolt.

17: Remove the ‘tool’ from the connector, replace the rubber cover, tuck back where you got it from and check that the temperature display returns on the dash!!

18: Put the tank back down, replace your seat, side panels and pillion seat and go and test!!!

 

Few more as the will not all fit in one post

 

After adding the power commander my bike is never jerky.Is this going to make it more fuel efficient or more power or just better throttle response? Just curios!

 

After adding the power commander my bike is never jerky.Is this going to make it more fuel efficient or more power or just better throttle response? Just curios! okey:

 

Great pictorial Chris, thanks for sharing. I'll be trying this tomorrow as mine is lumpy as hell at low revs in traffic.

Steve :beer:

 

Great pictorial Chris, thanks for sharing. I'll be trying this tomorrow as mine is lumpy as hell at low revs in traffic.

Steve :beer:

Well done mate for the pics and how to!

I'd love to say that I'll do mine but I may have to wait for one of the Essex Boyz to do it to their bikes and ask them to do it to mine, I'm not very good with that sort of thing and have a VERY short fuse!

Great guide all the same.

 

Thanks i was trying to work out from earler threads how to do it but just weren`t clear enough about the sesor so will this do. I did a serch and lifted it fromt tinternet. Think it should be pined.

 

Thanks i was trying to work out from earler threads how to do it but just weren`t clear enough about the sesor so will this do. I did a serch and lifted it fromt tinternet. Think it should be pined.

Pinned it is

 

Great job Chewy.......we haven't had a new "how to..." for ages.

 

Couldn't have done it any better....
One note to add is it takes a couple of seconds for the display to show the change once you move the TPS. So you have to be a little patient...

GREAT JOB!

 

Excellent job Chewy.

I noticed the jerks this morning on the new bike. If i didnt have a pc3 to fit id do this. The Tre would help as well.

Cheers
Adam

 

Nice one M8 :niceone: Other than removing the snorkle I'd say this was the most noticeable "tweak" mod.

 

Got around to doing mine today YEP it did need sorting mine started with the bar at the bottom on tickover is sooo smooooth now at low reves.

 

Great How To mate :first: :niceone:,

Do you know if this would this benifit a remaped bike?

 

Got around to doing mine today YEP it did need sorting mine started with the bar at the bottom on tickover is sooo smooooth now at low reves.

:niceone:
Good work Chewy, how long did it take you from start to finish? For a technically inept person like me it'll probably take twice as long but by the sounds of it the change will be worth it.

DC

 

:niceone:
Good work Chewy, how long did it take you from start to finish? For a technically inept person like me it'll probably take twice as long but by the sounds of it the change will be worth it.

DC

After a short ride to warm the bike up about 1/2 an hour but now having done it bet i could do yours in about 15 min now

 

Question. If I have thrown in a TRE, does that help or correct the same problem?

 

Backfire or POP

I get a loud bang or pop on light throttle blips. :argh: Even sometimes in gear while moving causeing a stall, think this could fix me up. Sounds pretty simple, especialy with the pics to go by. Thanks Chewy, well done.

 

Niceone Chewy

I have added a link to this thread in Links to Tuning - Air, PC, TRE, etc

:niceone:

 

After a short ride to warm the bike up about 1/2 an hour but now having done it bet i could do yours in about 15 min now

That almost sounds like an offer :innocent: though I think the distance makes it unlikely!
Thanks for the info Chewy, will add this to my growing list of mods / enhancements to be done. :niceone:

 

Great How To article. I did mine today, it was out of spec (2500 RPM).

I wonder how it would affect a PC lll as DJ probably doesn't check to see if the TPS is correct.

 

Well Done!

Great Job Chewy!

You can't possibly have ever done any technical writing, your bit was far too good!

 

Great How To article. I did mine today, it was out of spec (2500 RPM).

I wonder how it would affect a PC lll as DJ probably doesn't check to see if the TPS is correct.

Once you set the TPS against the bikes calibration, you then set the TPS calibration on the PCIII. This way they are in Sync.

 

Once you set the TPS against the bikes calibration, you then set the TPS calibration on the PCIII. This way they are in Sync.

Thanks TLRMan. I did just that as I readjusted the idle too.
It made a difference, much more responsive now.

Thanks again.