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according to my calculations the 6.6k resistor is a better choice, it leaves you closer to the stock voltage drop than the 6.8k. i also calculated other values but the 6k-6.8k is the best series of values for this. anything lower than that and 1st gear is not high enough of a value.
 
Could you use a different resistance, and/or a multi-position switch to tailor the timing retard? Say a 6.8 for the full throttle playing so all gears have full timing, a different resistor to give 1st, but not second, some timing retard for say cool or cold days, and then even a third (none) to give the stock timing retard for the rainy days.

Basically, could you use a different resistor to give first and second say the old third and fourth gear map, if you so wanted, the rest was just thinking out loud.

Or just go nuts and design a system that will vary resistance based on rear wheel revolutions to limit power untill the tires warm up, key on no revolutions is stock, 1200 revolutions (arbitrary number, roughly 1 mile) changes the resistance and moves the timing down one gear, 2400 revolutions down two gears, 3600 down 3, etc untill there is no timing retard for any gears. Of course there is all kinds of directions you could go from here, wheel speed measurements instead of revolutions, 30 mph for more than two minutes gets you one setting, etc.

Sorry, the nerd in me took over again.
 
I was actualy looking at a switch at radio shack that could make that possible. I was going to use a 2k ohm resistor on one leg to keep 1-2 gears with some retard and the rest without. then the other leg would be the 6.6k resistor and the third would be stock. I have decided against this as it would require three paths off one wire and I am not sure how the would be done adding even more resistance to the curcuit.
 
Simple, TRE, 6.8 K ohms, pink,

Ykar,
Thank you for your time putting this together.

I got a chance to upgrade my bike today. My local radio shack didn't have the 6.8 K ohm resistors, but Frys did, $1 USD for a pck of four.
I had a switchable TRE installed already, so I was able to use those OEM type connectors that came with it, to wire in the new resistor. I used shrink tubing over the resistor, but then decided to make a protective cover for it as well. I took a couple pictures. I thought about making it switchable just to test it, but then decided to trust it will work, and complete the job. I like being able to eliminate the manual switch. I put an ohm meter on it after I soldered it up to make sure the resistance was still 6.8 K ohms.
 

Attachments

Thank you for the easy TRE

Took longer to pull out the tools than to do the job!
So far so good. Went for a long ride today and it did seem to be smoother and a little stronger. I did notice that it was easier to take off from a stop. I really tried to test at higher R's in gears 1 - 5. Extreme lean angles hard my full attention so it was hard to concentrate on suttle engine differences though. :D
I stopped by Fryes as well for the parts. ...wasn't sure about wattage...got 1/4...hope it doesn't burn out. They had the 6.8k's and the heat shrink. Go figure that the shrink tube was twice as much as the 4-pack of resisters. About $3.50 US with WA state tax for everything.

Anyways, THANK YOU YKAR for the great tip!

Zrider
05 SV1ks - Black
Mods:
LeoVince cans
HeliBars (Awesmoe wrist savers)
De-snorkled
K&N air filter
De-steering dampered (Much more stable without it!)
De-stickered
Suzuki lower fairings
 
Well, that was easy, 50c worth of resistors, 10 minutes soldering and instant yipee!!!!!!!!!!!!!! works for me.
 
The only thing I could find is 2 1.5ks and a 3.9k, making 6.9k total. I think I'll check Fry's to see if they have a 6.8k before I try anything else. Might as well stick to the tried & true method, right?
 
Well I did it :)

Had to adjust the tick over up 300 rpm as it dropped off.. feels a bit better riding so Ill do a fuel test and see what the difference is, I normally get 123 miles before the fuel light comes on, will post back if its a major difference.

Thanks to all who found this and shared with us common people :D

TrOjAn
 
With the TRE mod, fuel usage is about the same so thats good.

I am however getting popping through the carb inlets every now and then, defo runs smoother, clod starting is a pain in so much as it starts but if left for over a minute stalls, I need to open the throttle to keep it going so it appears its OVER fuelling.

TrOjAn
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Check your wiring again, something is wrong. As told in my first post, the simplest smart TRE does'nt have any impact on neutral map which means your idle rpm should not have droped, and cold starts should be exaclty as fine as stock.
The symptoms you describe are similar to the ones observed with the classic TRE...
 
I did check honest guv... I cut the pink wire, used push conectors male and female on the existing pink wire so I can remove the resistor, put a male and female connector on the resistor itself, plugged it in.. cant see how its wrong in anyway.

Does the resistor have a right or wrong way? Bikes running well so not too worried.

TrOjAn
 
Just a few quetions

Hey with this mod i know that it makes the bike think that it is in sixth gear ll the time but i was wondering if anyone has had any affects on their gas mileage either postive or negative before i go out and do this mod.

Thanks,
Scott
 
Hey with this mod i know that it makes the bike think that it is in sixth gear ll the time but i was wondering if anyone has had any affects on their gas mileage either postive or negative before i go out and do this mod.

Thanks,
Scott
As this is a mod for maximum performance what difference does fuel economy make. If you ride normally , normal mpg. If you thrash it poor mpg simple !:HMM:
 
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