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Would you rather spend $500-$1600 on loud pipes, or get the same gains for FREE???

  • Pay out the ass for a not-so-sure hp gain and questionable good sound

    Votes: 23 38%
  • Do it yourself and SEE and HEAR the difference for FREE

    Votes: 38 62%

the REAL HOW-TO GUT/MODIFY YOUR STOCK CANS THREAD.

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12K views 35 replies 17 participants last post by  dantropolis  
#1 ·
Okay everyone, after seeing the sticky how-to thread I still had several questions as it seems everyone did. So I decided to just get the endcaps off and go from scratch with my buddy from Firestone.
First everyone should understand how these cans come from the factory. It is a 2-baffle setup with 2 plates welded about 2/3 of the way towards the back of the muffler. By the time it gets to the peashooter to get the exhaust gas out of the muffler, it has literally filled the muffler 3 times. You'll see what I mean when you get in there. That understood, you know it will take some work :D

This is what you'll need for the job:

high speed cutting bit
allen key (for endcap bolts)
grinder with good grinding wheel
cutting torch
air hammer
long pry-bar
Heavy Hammer (BFH)
flashlight
Vice Grips
cloth
about 1 hour per can (2 hours total for the laymen)

1----First off keep the cans on the bike to get the endcaps loose. I used a high-speed cutter made by Dremel from Wal-Mart (for like $6) to cut the tack-welds on the endcap bolts, and after a quick counter-clockwise slap on the allen wrench the bolts came loose. Once you get those off you see a metal plate with a peashooter sticking out.
2----I then cut the peashooter off with a hacksaw just to make cutting thru the plate a little easier. Remove the mufflers from the bike at this point. Then we took the grinding wheel and cut around the peashooter in a diamond shape to free it up. It makes it easier if you seperate the peashooter from the metal with the torch so you can finagle it out.
3----Now you should have some room to move the peashooter. It is welded to the rear baffle, so don't get discouraged when you have to put some ass into it. Move it back and forth until it starts to move freely, then go the other way with it. Basically you have to move it horizontally AND vertically to free it up enough. When you can finally move it in a circle you are done wiggling.
4----Now to remove the peashooter. We used a long pry-bar to make the hole around the peashooter bigger so it would slide out. What you do is put the prybar against the bottom of the peashooter (where it goes into the baffle) and give it a few good whacks with the hammer. This pushes the edge of the baffle metal down and makes room for removal. Do this on a few sides of the peashooter and until you can slide it outta there. This is the first part of the process...DONE :D
5----Now the skilled part of the job. Use the flashlight to look into the can on both sides. You will see 2 plates with 2 tubes going into or out of each side. Along the edges where the plates meet the inside of the muffler you will see 3-4 tack-welds that are holding them in place. THESE are your targets to get those baffles loose.
6----You need to take your air hammer and - with precision accuracy - seperate the welds between the baffles and the can. This will take awhile and it helps to have someone hold the muffler while you do it so you don't drop her repeatedly (or get the air hammer stuck, which WILL happen :yes:) Don't get frustrated cuz you are almost done and it is gonna be worth it!
7----After you get them loose, have a friend hold the muffler level (with a rag or towel cuz of the hotness) while you cut the baffles into little pieces with the cutting torch. We found it is easier to just cut the pipes apart, then seperate the pipes from the baffles while holding the pipes with some vice grips, then cut the baffle once or twice more to let them fall out through either side. After cutting and removing the baffles with the torch and vice grips, run some cold water over the muffler inside and out to cool her off.
8----After you get the 6-7 pounds of useless baffle out of your muffler look through it and see the beauty of your new straight-thru stock can :D It appears these cans use fiberglass or something along the inside to catch the poisonous gases. Don't worry about that, cuz your bike will sound great just the way it is.
9----Replace your newly opened exhaust on the bike and enjoy riding and waking up your neighbors more than ever before.

I will try to post a vid of the bike after this procedure was done so you guys can see what a huge difference it makes.
It makes the bike ALOT louder - we all know "loud pipes save lives" -, gives you better gas mileage, dramatically increases throttle response, saves 6-7 pounds of dead weight, and gives you MUCH more top-end power. Every how-to I have seen before this one only mentions removing the endplate and maybe the peashooter...WTF? This is such an incomplete way of doing the job it's not even funny. Those baffles need to come out, folks. Do this right to truly unleash the power of your stock setup. ENJOY!!

ps - thanks to Robby at Firestone for his help. By the way, after we did my '03 SV, his '07 is gonna be done asap cuz he LOVES the sound.

Everyone ride safe and be smart, cuz your bike just got a little lighter with a kick-ass sound..FOR FREE! I know I know, it beats spending $600 on something that probly won't even sound as good :D

latas
 
#7 ·
Hey sounds really good something i might want to do soon but i was wondering if you have any pics of the process to make sure i dont mess up any where other than that a very good post.:) and i was wondering do you know how loud it is in decivals if that is how you spell it?
There is no power to be found in the exhaust of this motorcycle. 2-4 hp from the best aftermarket cans and you are a lucky dog. Gut them if you like them because the only true gain is sound:headbang: But they are HEAVY!


D.T. is kidding but go for it if you want Scott!
 
#17 ·
I still have the stock cans on bro... and yes they are modified..but they still aren't very loud ( a good thing in my opinion ).......as far as the weight goes..the dudes on the R1's and GXSR'S that I pass in the twisties can't tell the difference:bleh:

Do your own thing, and ride man ride :first::cheers:
 
#20 ·
Gutting the stock cans won't make them much lighter, and it definitely won't make them any less repulsive to look at. Given that the biggest performance gains from the exhaust are in stripping out the massive weight of the cans, it's goodbye stockers imho :yes:

/edit: Oh, and the poll options are pretty lame, you can't really vote for either
 
#23 ·
Ironically I just switched the SV back to the modded stockers from Wileyco Cans and pulled the PC-3 in preparation for selling it. In a shake down run this transformed the SV back to "wow":yawn: from "HOLY SH*T" !!! :surprise:

My tendencies lean toward the sicker the better but hey, to each his own.
 
#34 ·
Gutting mine.

Mine are not much heavier than the yoshi triovals. If anything I would cut the cans shorter and put a shout in the open end ... and the triovals look stupidly long too. I cant stand a can that eats up the whole rear end.
And I very much like the cored noise over the raspy triovals. However well, there is a 1000 cans not just triovals. The cored stock sounds mellow. Triovals sound dry and grating.